Thursday, June 11, 2009

Har ghar kuch kehta hai...

I have always had a fascination for old things. History used to be my favorite subject in school. My secret ambition was to become an archaeologist. Appreciating ancient architecture still remains a passion. I lose myself completely when I visit an old church or a historical monument. But my all time favorites remain the lovely Goan Catholic ancestral villas which represent a unique blend of the two cultures: the East and the West. The Portuguese left Goa in the 1960s but till date, the 450 years of colonial rule is clearly reflected through these homes. Probably another reason for my affinity towards these ancestral villas is coz I was born and brought up in one of these ancestral homes too.

My home has had a very interesting history. It seems a brother and a sister bought the plots back in the beginning of the 20th century and decided to build two mansions side by side, so they could live next to each other.The brother built our home and the sister built the house next to ours. Technically speaking, the two houses were exact replicas of each other. Due to the colonial rule in Goa,a large number of Goan residents had moved to Portugal in the quest of well-paying jobs. After Goa got liberated and became a part of the Indian Union, these immigrants did not wish to come back. So they started selling off their ancestral properties in Goa. The brother who had built our home was also one of them.His family was to leave Goa and settle in Portugal forever so he put up his house for sale. This was sometime in 1970s when my grand-dad was also looking for a big home to accommodate his large family.He came across this offer and it was too good to let go and that's how the brother's house became our home!

People often wonder, what is it that makes these ancestral Goan villas so unique from the other houses? According to me it is their grandeur-the large French Windows, the tall doors and the high ceiling.As you enter a typical ancestral villa, you are drifted into the past. These villas were built spacious with large halls coz during those days,weddings, ceremonies and other important family gatherings used to be held in the house itself.Even after he bought our home, my grand-dad had to spend considerable time and money in making a lot of modifications to convert some of these dance halls into bedrooms. I still remember the reaction I used to get back in school when any of my classmates would discover about my home.Their eyes would widen with excitement and I would have to answer the same question umpteenth time-"How does it feel to live in such a huge, old house? You are so damn lucky!"

Over the years, as much as we have loved and boasted about our home, there have been others who have appreciated it as much. First there was a professor from Goa College of Architecture who was doing his PhD and his thesis consisted of exploring all the ancestral homes in Borda. Borda is that part of Margao which houses maximum number of Catholic ancestral villas. So naturally, he was at our doorstep , asking us the permission to let him look around and we were most happy to let him in. He came in with his professional cameras, clicking every door frame and window and jotting down the dimensions and other details and all the family members were wondering what he was finding so interesting in those old walls. He later had an exhibition where he showcased all those photographs and we realized how beautiful every frame looked. We remembered the good ol' saying then -Only a connoisseur knows the true taste of his wine!

Another one of our home's admirer had a very strange story. On one lazy Sunday morning, we had a visitor. He was a European man, in his early thirties. He said our home had belonged to his grand-father, that is of course before his grand-father sold it off to my grand-dad and moved forever to Portugal.His father was born in our home and he had spent the first few years of his life in the Borda neighborhood. Now, his father was on the death-bed and as his last wish, he had sent his son to Goa, all the way from Portugal to get pictures and memories of his old home, the church in which he was baptized, the chapel which he visited every Sunday for mass. Our visitor had a small piece of paper, given to him by his ailing dad which had a vague map of our neighborhood, with all the intricate details such as where he could get the best choris-paav (a Catholic delicacy made from Pork sausages) in the area. Mamma and I were a little apprehensive of letting a stranger, that too a foreigner inside our home but I don't know what it was about him, we felt he was genuine and we asked him in.

He was clicking photographs of each and every thing he could see as he walked around. His original family altar was replaced with a mini-temple by my grand-dad to accommodate all our deities. The master bedroom of the house, which used to be his grand-dad's bedroom had become my grand-dad's bedroom and after my grand-dad passed away, I had become its new owner. It is the largest room in the house and also the most beautiful one with 3 doors and 2 huge French windows. During those days, furniture used to be custom made for individual rooms. The original owners of the house had the carpenters build a grand master bed from scratch inside the bedroom itself. The resulting bed became so grand that it couldn't be moved out of the room in one piece when the owners sold the house so my grand-dad had to ultimately buy the house along with this piece of furniture! When we narrated this story to our visitor, he was touched. This was a bed not just passed through the generations of my family but it was passed through the generations of both our families.

We finished touring the house and sat on the couch, he got busy sipping his kokam sarbat, another Goan delicacy he could go back and tell his family in Portugal about. He was extremely happy he had collected enough pictures to make his ailing father happy.It occurred to me then, that the two of us were connected in the strangest possible manner-our house. He was the grand-son of this house just like I was the grand-daughter. A house is not just a bunch of walls with a roof on the top,every house is special and every house has a story to tell. Har ghar kuch kehta hai....

Har ghar chup chaap se yeh kehta hai ki andar usmein kaun rehta hai?
Chhat bataati hai... ...yeh kiska aasmaan hai.
Rang kehte hain kiska yeh jahaan hai.
Kamron mein kiski kalpana jhalakti hai?
Is farsh par nange pair kiske bacche chalte hain?
Kaun chun chunke ise pyaar se sajaata hai?
Kaun is makaan mein apna ghar basaata hai...
Har ghar chup chaap se yeh kehta hai... ki andar usmein kaun rehta hai?

14 comments:

Unknown said...

this is a goan special article!! :)
it made me remember of my grandfather's house. had stayed there for a short period as a kid.
the huge halls..broad and tall..anyone would long for such design.
tiled roof..n the sound of heavy rain on it.
huge windows.. which would in many cases be our exits/entrances ;)

coming to your article, about the grandson just coming all the way just to take pics of the house..that's very touching...all credit to you for describing it brilliantly!

you should not have put the 'choris-paav' thing.. i really want to have one now :D
btw did you see the churches in old goa? they real describe the Portuguese style.

I simply love reading your articles..."tera har article kuch kehta hai" ;) keep posting :)

Akshay Sangodkar said...

Thats a fascinating post. I was dreaming when I reading it. I remembered my days and years I spent in my old house. It was not a Catholic house but a Hindu one and it originally belonged to a wealthy guy. The house was bought by my grandpa through an auction. According to the stories told by my granny and uncles, this house was the only house have a first floor, in the entire village. During those days of poverty my grand father struggled a lot to pay the money. I remember one day, one guy with his old mother suddenly turned up at the door and requested to show the house. It was his mother's wish to see the house one last time. She was thrilled to see it again. I was thrilled even more to see the people who used to stay in the house even before i was born!! hehe.. It was very nostalgic to leave the house and shift to Panjim. Now we are renovating the house coz it is very difficult to maintain the house when nobody is staying in it. An old saying 'The warmth in the house is lost. The house starts deteriorating.' I am sorry to end at a low note but cant help it!

Janaki Sincro Mulay said...

I didnt know most of the things you have written abt our house!

this one is yet again, a beautiful post!

full marks to u! :)

whether it is summer, winter or the beautiful monsoons........at the turn of every season i miss our home and living in it, coz there is a difference in living in old houses!

its really nice to know that akshay n u have a similar story to tell abt each of ur houses!

when i was to get married, i knew i wud miss my old portuguese style house. so i asked sharmad to make the big French window in our bedroom- so that i would feel at home!

most of the people owning such big houses are selling them off. we see big ugly buildings replacing them all the time.

remember di? when uncle sold his house and when Talak's men were breaking it down? I felt so bad, it was like killing a person part by part!

the people who told us to sell off our house in return for a bungalow, are now themselves looking out for such old houses or building a new 1 - in the old style!

Janaki Sincro Mulay said...

B E A utiful!

Di said...

@Melvin: The Old Goa churches are one of my favorite spots in Goa.A visit to those churches is like sitting into some kind of a time machine and drifting into the past for me ;-).Every time I visit them, I feel the same excitement as I'd felt when I'd seen them for the 1st time.Man, you've got me nostalgic now :-(!And hey,thanks for being a faithful reader :-).

Di said...

@Akshay: I'm glad you guys are restoring your old house coz now a days all I see is people selling off their ancestral properties to builders. There are a lot of emotions attached with the place you've lived in and it is very difficult to let it all go so easily!

@Janaki: "I didnt know most of the things you have written abt our house!"
See, now that's what I meant by- Har ghar kuch kehta hai. You just need to listen ;-)

CSP said...

very nice!!.. If u don get d job then dont worry Devi... because.. .Devki "The Author" is in Making...
Wonderful vocabulary... english writing skills... gr8...

Di said...

@CSP: Thanks dear. You find me a publisher first :-)!

Siddhi said...

Heya!!!

This is an awesome one... made me nostalgic!!!

Took me back to my ancestral house... thanks for that!!

Hope these places which define who we goans are remain for generations to experiance...

Di said...

@Siddhi's :Thanks to both of you!I'm glad my post could remind you'll about Goa :-). Presently looking at the construction boom in Goa, I only hope our next generation gets to experience these lovely ancestral villas as much as we did!

Anzil said...

Hi Devaki

I think I've discovered this post a bit too late! :(
Lovely post! Thank you so much for writing about my house! ;-)
I also enjoyed living in 'your/my' house. LOL I lived in that house for the first 14 yrs of my life and I surely know what it means to live in a beautiful portuguese ancestral house. I feel that we are very lucky to have lived in such wonderful houses and that really makes us special!

When I learnt about the tale of the 3 houses, I felt really proud of my family and the place I come from. But at the same time I feel totally helpless and miserable because I dont know what fate has in store for my beautiful house and all I can do is just watch. As time passes by, I keep seeing ancestral houses disappearing one by one from Borda, each replaced by some stupid and dumb (I'm referring to architecture) structure of concrete.

Borda once the 'Fountainhas' of Margao is now slowly losing its charm. :( I just pray and hope that you keep your house and its legacy alive forever. Someday down the line your house WILL remind me of something I've always cherished, something which wont be there with me at that point of time!

Di said...

@Anzil: Thanks for reading the post and sorry for the really late reply to your late comment :-). I have been out of Blogger for some time now.

A small correction to your comment. The house you are referring to is the house next to our's. That's because you couldn't really have spent 14 years of your life in our house when we never gave it away. Also, you are a couple of years junior to me:-). Our house & the house next us are identical & were supposedly built for the brother and sister. So that house could have belonged to your grand father!

Unknown said...

this is nother lovely post devaki... just get carried away reading ur blogs.. u write with whole heart jst the way u talk.. m glad to have a friend like u... tooo good!!

Di said...

@Karishma: Thanks Karishma for reading the articles and of course for your kind words :-). I hope to start blogging again very soon! So do keep coming back.